January 1, 2009 Sal-I-naw Mubarak! Happy new year! I arrived in Kabul yesterday and have barely begun to sort through impressions from the last three days traveling from DC to Dubai to Kabul. One could hardly find a greater contrast than one night in Dubai and the next day in Kabul.
Women in Dubai were chic and glamorous, even in their black chiffon hijabs which cover them from head to toe, but do not cover their faces. In Kabul, many women seen on the street are covered in heavy blue burkas with a narrow slit at the eyes; that slit is covered with a net grilling. Young women cover their heads with scarves, but often wear jeans, high heels, and nail polish.
I traveled here with my friend Belquis who was born in Kabul, moved to the US in 2001 with her parents and siblings, and now works in Kabul. We had great plans of celebrating New Year's Eve in Dubai but were told by our hotel that the Government of Dubai had canceled New Year's Eve celebrations because of the strife in Gaza. Our hotel offered several dinner packages in the various restaurants -- all too pricey, even the package that offered a meal and all the soft drinks you could consume in the restaurant and later in the bar until 3:00 AM for $300 US. We settled for room service Mezzeh and a bottle of Chilean wine.
I have only glimpsed Kabul so far on the ride to my guest house from the airport. Early images: military police with Ak-47s; roadside vendors everywhere; huge glitzy Las Vegasy buildings that serve as wedding halls (a big industry in Kabul); donkey carts vying with newish cars for one of three lanes on the highway from the airport.
The guest house I live in is 3 floors plus a basement where we eat meals. The view outside my window is of private residences, one of them enormous and pink. Our meals are prepared to American tastes by Afghan cooks. Last night's dinner was roast beef, mashed potatoes, and green beans. The house is built in an ornate Asian style with many flourishes and curlicues. A terrace on the third floor offers a beautiful view of the snow-capped mountains that surround Kabul and make it the dust bowl it is. I have a big TV in my room with cable and satellite access (yesterday, I watched Indian Idol!).We are driven everywhere in armored cars with armed bodyguards. The guest house is guarded 24/7. But I am not worried. I feel very safe. The Afghanistan Rule of Law Project where I am working has a finely-tuned security operation.
The work week in Kabul is 6 days, Saturday through Thursday. Today, Friday, is the weekend. I am eager to get out and see more of Kabul.
Women in Dubai were chic and glamorous, even in their black chiffon hijabs which cover them from head to toe, but do not cover their faces. In Kabul, many women seen on the street are covered in heavy blue burkas with a narrow slit at the eyes; that slit is covered with a net grilling. Young women cover their heads with scarves, but often wear jeans, high heels, and nail polish.
I traveled here with my friend Belquis who was born in Kabul, moved to the US in 2001 with her parents and siblings, and now works in Kabul. We had great plans of celebrating New Year's Eve in Dubai but were told by our hotel that the Government of Dubai had canceled New Year's Eve celebrations because of the strife in Gaza. Our hotel offered several dinner packages in the various restaurants -- all too pricey, even the package that offered a meal and all the soft drinks you could consume in the restaurant and later in the bar until 3:00 AM for $300 US. We settled for room service Mezzeh and a bottle of Chilean wine.
I have only glimpsed Kabul so far on the ride to my guest house from the airport. Early images: military police with Ak-47s; roadside vendors everywhere; huge glitzy Las Vegasy buildings that serve as wedding halls (a big industry in Kabul); donkey carts vying with newish cars for one of three lanes on the highway from the airport.
The guest house I live in is 3 floors plus a basement where we eat meals. The view outside my window is of private residences, one of them enormous and pink. Our meals are prepared to American tastes by Afghan cooks. Last night's dinner was roast beef, mashed potatoes, and green beans. The house is built in an ornate Asian style with many flourishes and curlicues. A terrace on the third floor offers a beautiful view of the snow-capped mountains that surround Kabul and make it the dust bowl it is. I have a big TV in my room with cable and satellite access (yesterday, I watched Indian Idol!).We are driven everywhere in armored cars with armed bodyguards. The guest house is guarded 24/7. But I am not worried. I feel very safe. The Afghanistan Rule of Law Project where I am working has a finely-tuned security operation.
The work week in Kabul is 6 days, Saturday through Thursday. Today, Friday, is the weekend. I am eager to get out and see more of Kabul.
1 comment:
Ann, I am a parent from the list serve and live in Dubai. Had I known you were here, you could have joined our simple house party. You would have enjoyed meeting expats of all nationalities and we would have loved to hear your story. Do let me know if your plans bring you through Dubai again. I am excited about your efforts in Kabul and look forward to following them via your blog. Good luck!
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